10.12.2014

Jerk Turkey Burger

Jerk Turkey Burger at Carson Kitchen
A
This is nothing short of the best turkey burger we've ever tasted. Rumor has it the kitchen mixes in a liberal dose of applesauce along with the spicy-sweet jerk seasonings, making for an unbelievably juicy burger patty with flavor for days. It's so good, it's tempting to accuse the kitchen of cheating. Is this really turkey? Somehow Carson Kitchen has made this usually pedestrian bite into something magically delightful. Also stacked on this soft, brioche-style bun is tangy, crispy coleslaw mixed with mango chutney, pushing the Caribbean flavors into overdrive. This is the only turkey burger you should be eating.

10.11.2014

Pan Manchego

Pan Manchego at Julian Serrano
B+
Okay, this traditional tapas dish is barely a sandwich, and a small snack of a sandwich at that. But it's so simple and delicious, it deserves all the love it can get. A sort of mini-baguette is toasted to crisp, savory perfection and filled with a sauce of fresh garlic and tomatoes plus year-old manchego cheese, that Spanish sheep's milk goodness with a nutty, caramelish flavor that blends so nicely with the acidic brightness in that tomato sauce. The simpler dishes at Julian Serrano are so brilliant, and this is one of our favorites. Think of it as a Spanish grilled cheese if you like, but just be sure to eat it.

10.07.2014

Coney Loose Burger

Coney Loose Burger at American Coney Island
D
Yikes. There's a lot of drunkfood in Las Vegas, but this Detroit transplant—perhaps the dim cousin to American Coney's disappointing Coney Island chili dog—takes it to another level, and by that I mean you must be inebriated to even consider consuming this mess. Where's the dog? There isn't one. There is, however, a flavorless mush swipe of gray ground beef under a big ladle full of chili, or the unspicy, not-quite-savory brew that passes for chili at this 24-hour Fremont Street stop. Toss on some onions and a stripe of yellow mustard, and apparently, you've got a Detroit classic. This "burger" is in dire need of some cheese, or anything that could fill in the flavor missing from the disappeared dog. The only explanation is that someone thought this chili was so good, it could hold up a sandwich all by itself. They were wrong.

10.06.2014

Steak Burger

Steak Burger at Dispensary Lounge
A-
There's at least one Las Vegas food writer who believes the half-pound burger (for just $5.95) at the classically weird dive bar Dispensary is one of the best in town, and so we went there with this guy, we marveled at the wall-to-wall carpeting and the water wheel, and we ate this burger. And you know what? He's right. This thing is a masterpiece of simplicity, a thick, juicy patty of fresh beef ground just right and cooked by someone who knows what they're doing. Put whatever cheese you like—we did American—and enjoy the ideal toppings of lettuce, tomato, onion and pickle. Saturate your steak burger in one of the kitchen's house-made sauces or the chef's special spicy mystery mustard. Appreciate the ideal fries that come along with it. All those extras are just icing on the cake, though, as this thing is pure burger success.

10.04.2014

Vampiro

Vampiro at Tacos El Gordo
B-
There are people who try to tell me a burger isn't a sandwich, or a hot dog isn't a sandwich. That's just illogical bullshit. There will be someone telling me a Vampiro isn't a sandwich, either. But look at it. Furthermore, if those crispy corn tortillas were soft, would it be more of a sandwich? What if they weren't tortillas at all, but some other form of the same corn masa, perhaps griddled into a cake and used as bread like a Venezuelan arepa or a Mexican gordita or a Salvadoran pupusa? What then, hater? Would it be sandwich enough for you? That's what I thought. Instead of arguing with me, go to Tacos El Gordo and enjoy this crunchy creation, which I filled with caramelized carne asada to go along with toasted quesadilla cheese, guacamole, salsa, cilantro and onions. It's not as easy to handle as TEG's sublime tacos, but you're probably eating here because you're drunk/hungover, and a Vampiro is just as much fun. Maybe more.

Sloppy Joe

Sloppy Joe at Bunkhouse Saloon
B+
We're not sure if Sloppy Joes are coming into fashion, becoming a trendy menu item a la pork belly or deviled eggs. But if that happens, this is more or less how it's done. No filler on this big beauty—no slaw or lettuce or veggie of any kind. Just finely ground beef seasoned with tomatoes, onions and lots of other stuff, savory and slightly sweet, messy and delicious. The bun is brioche, puffy-soft and sweet on its own but toasted enough to hold up to the massive meat pile for at least your first four bites. After that, you're on your own, and that's how it should be.


9.23.2014

El Mexicano

El Mexicano at Cheffinis
A+
Congratulations! You are reading the 300th post at allsandwich. What an accomplishment this is for you! For almost five years now, you've been reading all about all kinds of delicious (and sometimes not-so-delicious) sandwiches in Las Vegas and many other places, demonstrating your commitment to this most important of foodstuffs. We salute you. And it's no coincidence that the 300th is an absolute treasure, maybe the best hot dog in Las Vegas. We've been fans of Cheffinis for years, happily and drunkenly munching its street cart goodies after wild nights downtown, and now these crazy-talented hot dog craftsmen have taken up permanent residence at Container Park. Do check out their new spot, and do sample El Mexicano. Somehow these guys make the bacon-wrapped and grilled frank into something that seems like it occurs naturally. It's like the skin of the dog is bacon, thin and crisp and savory and wonderful. Stacked on that meaty foundation are fresh chunks of avocado, onion and tomato, a bit of cilantro, plus a tangy green sauce, a tangier chipotle guava sauce, creamy garlic aioli and an acidic cherry pepper relish. It sounds like topping overkill but when you get a bite of everything—and you do, on almost every bite—it's absolute bliss, full, wild flavor balance with the familiar sensation of soft bun and snappy meat tube. The Cheffinis crew knows what they're doing.

Brioche Donut

Brioche Donut at Metro Pizza's beer and pizza dinner
at Lulu's Bread & Breakfast
A
It's no surprise that one of the most epic ice cream sandwiches ever created was done so at Lulu's Bread & Breakfast, one of our favorite local sandwich depots and the offshoot of stalwart Vegas pizzeria Metro Pizza. The occasion: a multi-course pizza and beer pairing dinner that filled us so completely full, we wanted nothing to do with dessert … until this baby arrived. A sweet, fluffy cloud of brioche converted into doughnut form was split and stuffed with caramel-sea salt gelato, studded with chocolate chunks, and then drizzled with a little extra ganache and powdered sugar just for fun. The beautiful texture of the dough against the thick, creamy gelato was nothing short of ethereal. As if we weren't swimming in sandwich happiness already, Wasatch's Black O Lantern pumpkin stout was served along with this treat. Too much awesome.

9.06.2014

Canteen Banh Mi

Canteen Banh Mi at Made L.V.
A
Leave it to the powerhouse team that brought us neighborhood favorite Honey Salt to create the banh mi of our dreams. As we've always lamented, the main problems with the typical banh mi sandwich are the frequent use of low-quality bread, a too-high bread-to-fillings ratio, and the common use of unfortunate ingredients between the bread. Everything's solved at Made L.V., the new Tivoli Village tavern, as a soft yet still substantial French roll—not sure if this is officially a baguette; it's a bit bulkier—is positively crammed with house-made paté and country ham, salty meaty satisfaction galore. The obligatory pickled veggie salad is here, along with fresh herbs, jalapeños and sriracha mayo, everything blending together in each bite for crispy, savory, fresh, creamy, spicy, beautiful balance. It's everything we love about banh mi elevated to the level these iconic sandwich deserves.

The Natural

The Natural at Farmer Boys
B-
I'm almost feeling Farmer Boys. The Natural is a third-pound patty of all-natural beef, ground and shaped to a nice, loose and juicy consistency, dropped on a fluffy, chewy potato bun and topped with two slices of American cheese, yellow onion shards, Thousand Island dressing and dill pickles. The double cheese meltiness and simple, classic toppings are quite pleasant, and the bun is impeccable. But it could use some lettuce crispness, and the meat is a bit bland. This seems to be a recurring threat with burger joints that go the natural/organic/farm-inspired route. We appreciate the plain beefy flavor of grass-fed cow, but that doesn't mean you can't season this bitch up. It's a solid burger, it just needs a little more attention.

9.01.2014

Rueben

Rueben at MTO Café
A
We're not sure if the fine folks at MTO Cafe spelled this classic sandwich wrong on accident or on purpose, but we don't care. It's probably the best reuben in Las Vegas. One bite and you're overwhelmed by juicy, powerfully flavored corned beef … and then you realize this is corned buffalo. Boom. Mind blown. It's rich and tender and eats like a much fattier meat, and how this kitchen got this lean meat to taste so amazing is an act of pure wizardry. Top this majestic meat stack with melty Swiss, a Russian dressing-like "special sauce" and a bit of crisp sauerkraut, and you've got a powerful package enclosed in toasty rye. Even the fries are great! MTO already impressed us with its killer Hangover Burger; with this "rueben" staying on our minds, we have to wonder if this friendly breakfast and lunch joint—soon to expand to Summerlin—isn't secretly one of our top sandwich shops.



8.30.2014

La Sureña

La Sureña at Rika Arepa Express
A
The Rika Arepa Express food truck hasn't displaced Viva Las Arepas as our go-to spot for these scrumptious masa cake sandwiches, but damn, this thing is delicious. The toasty griddled corn concoction is a little sweet and savory—maybe just a bit on the dry side—and absolutely stuffed with juicy, marinated and grilled chicken meat (dark and white), succulent slabs of a spicy smoked sausage, and mounds of creamy, rich avocado. It's one of the most satisfying bites you can imagine, hearty and bold and impossibly cheap ($7). It's a fantastic meal all by itself. Grab yourself one whenever you get the chance.

8.23.2014

Detroit Coney Classic

Detroit Coney Classic at Haute Doggery
C-
After showing early promise, Haute Doggery has us a little worried. Its selection of gourmet dogs still makes it a solid stop if you're wandering the Linq, but this wiener—a grilled beef frank traditionally topped with chili, cheddar, onions and mustard—leaves a lot to be desired. The dog itself is fine, but the bun is cold and dry and there aren't enough toppings. Plus, what's there doesn't bring a lot of flavor, and that's simply unacceptable for a joint that wants to be known for a fun, over-the-top take on a hot dog stand.


8.17.2014

Sandwich Sundays Presents: The Colby Burger

The Colby Burger
homemade
B
It's called this because it's full of Colby cheese, right? Wrong. It was made by brother Colby, one of the originators of Sandwich Sundays. It's his take on a Juicy Lucy, a massive beef patty magically stuffed with cheese before being cooked into a gooey, greasy, delicious mess. He filled these babies with sharp cheddar, creating a lava flow of cheese when you cut or bite into them. We grilled 'em and plopped 'em on soft rolls with griddled ham, homemade spicy brown mustard, and yes, another layer of cheese … Colby Jack! There's no doubt that this is the cheesiest burger ever consumed.

8.14.2014

Philly Joe

Philly Joe at Hank's Philly Steaks
B
The owner's of Hank's hail from South Philadelphia, and they claim to be the only true Philly steak shop in all of Las Vegas. We are not concerned with such proclamations. All we care about is if this cheese steak is delicious, and it is. The Philly Joe blends tangy Cheez Whiz with an American cheese sauce created at Hank's, and drops a lot of it all over these tender, satisfying slices of hand-trimmed ribeye steak. This is not a chopped steak sandwich, with thin ribbons of meat, which seems to be the most frequently munched style of cheese steak sandwich around town. This is a little bigger and bolder, topped off by a truly wonderful soft roll holding it all together. Is it the best? Not sure. But it's good enough to go back for more.

8.13.2014

TNB Cafe Signature Hamburger

TNB Cafe Signature Hamburger at Truffles N Bacon Cafe
A+
I don't want to like this burger, which seems ridiculous and gimmicky and gluttonous. I damn sure don't want to love it, but I do. It's undeniably delicious, and despite the indulgence of its toppings, it works. It really works.  The first thing you'll notice: Despite the fact that this beef patty is absolutely drenched with melted cheese, there still appears to be a need for a "slice" of crispified mac and cheese onboard this luscious cruise ship. That mac is fantastic; You'll want a side order of the stuff. All this meltiness, all this velvety cheesy texture is almost too much to handle, almost too rich to be awesome. But not quite. Because there's bacon jam on top, a thin but powerful layer of swine as condiment, and it's sweet, spicy, salty and salacious. There's a little sriracha ketchup inside this soft brioche bun, too. But it's undetectable. The flavor that's not overpowered by cheese, more cheese and bacon amazingness—the flavor that you need most—is cow. The burger patty itself is cooked exceptionally, juicy and just right. Truffles N Bacon Cafe is a tiny little hideaway in a weird little antique mall, but it'd be worth braving any environment to get your mouth on this masterpiece.

8.09.2014

Fried Catfish

Fried Catfish Sandwich at Brooklyn Bowl
B
Call it a fancy po' boy. Brooklyn Bowl's fried catfish sandwich drops huge, flaky filets of crunchified fish on a fluffy soft French roll—super soft—plus lettuce, tomato, onion and a light, sweet, slightly tangy corn tartar sauce. It's a mighty mouthful and supremely satisfying, with perfect proportions of meat and vegetables and stimulating textural contrasts. The only drawback is perhaps the fish coating could be flavored with some spice, to add some eat to the overall mix. But we're not complaining.


7.29.2014

C.B. Hash

C.B. Hash at The Goodwich
A
Is the breakfast menu at The Goodwich the greatest thing ever? Six sandwiches for $3, $5 or $7, impossible to choose a favorite, each crafted with love and talent. We are determined to work our way through what is surely the best breakfast sandwich selection ever assembled, starting with house-made corned beef hash plastered between two tasty, toasty slabs of marble rye with melty Swiss cheese, a fried egg and liberal splashes of green Tabasco. The hash is melt-in-your-mouth lovely, a blend of salty, fatty, and toothsome, flavor-absorbing potato morsels. And look at that cheese stretch! It's a work of art, and it tastes beautiful, too.

7.26.2014

Egg Sandwich with Salami

Egg Sandwich with Salami at Capriotti's
C
So a few select locations of Capriotti's serve a simple breakfast menu. This is mostly occurring at mini-Cap's stores in food court locations. At the Green Valley Ranch Resort spot, it seemed like a good idea to snag an eggwich before work. It turned out to be a mediocre idea. This is a version of the NYC egg sandwich, a soft kaiser roll with a quick scrambled egg, cheese and maybe a meat of your choice. I went the salami route, and was happy to discover they actually grilled the slices of meat for a bit on the flat top to achieve some crispy, greasy goodness. The roll was nice and fluffy, too. But overall, this is just too bland a bite. Don't be afraid to put a spicy, creamy spread of some sort to make breakfast come alive. Or, maybe don't be so skimpy with your salami. 

Texas BBQ Thickburger

Texas BBQ Thickburger at Carl's Jr.
D
What's on the latest monstrosity from Carl? A third-pound Black Angus beef patty (or a half, if you like), American cheese, "smoked brisket" in cloying "mesquite BBQ sauce" and fried jalapeño and onion bits. The brisket goes on the bun first, a mushy amalgam of fat and sugar. There's no trace of the guilty pleasure satisfaction that comes with putting additional meat on a cheeseburger. Carl's Jr. makes what is probably the best-known barbecue burger on the planet, the old Western Bacon Chee, so it's kind of disappointing that this adjustment—brisket for bacon, fryer leavings for onion rings—is so much crappier. But then again, it's certainly not surprising. I will say this: the new buns at Carl's are an improvement. A tiny improvement, but progress all the same.