The Rising Sun

The Rising Sun at Holsteins
 A brand new, fancy-ass casino resort opens on the Las Vegas Strip, and what do we do? Head straight for the sandwich, of course. Would you expect anything less? The only restaurant in the shiny new Cosmopolitan with already established Vegas ties is Holsteins Shakes and Buns, a burger palace from the makers of the decent LBS joint at the Red Rock Resort. But as you must do when you hit the Strip, these guys stepped their game up. The Holsteins menu is impressive, even stacked up against the never-ending cavalcade of fancy gourmet hamburger restaurants lining Las Vegas Boulevard. Interesting appetizers and cute sample-size mini-burgers and mini-dogs abound, and the selection of full-sized burgers is diverse and tempting.

I opted for one of the Asian-influenced burgers, the Rising Sun, which boasts Kobe beef with a teriyake glaze, a sprinklin' of furikake (dried ground fishy flakes with sesame and seaweed), thin strings of crispy fried yam, a slab of tempura avocado, and a spicy mayonnaise sauce. Took a bite, wow. I have enjoyed some great Asian burgers in town recently, from Bachi Burger to Fukuburger, and this one is right up there with the best. The meat is simply outstanding, juicy and beefy-fabulous and cooked perfectly medium, and complemented nicely by the sharp if slightly-too-sweet glaze. I couldn't detect the nori furikake and didn't pick up anything but a little saucy texture from the mayo, but that's because the flavor of the beef and the nice crispy texture of the yam frites is all you need. The avocado lends a nice, creamy touch, but this baby is all about the cow. It's a very impressive burger. In fact, it's good enough to merit a return to Holsteins, which is a substantial statement considering all the delicious food waiting to be eaten at the Cosmopolitan.

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